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Quickie ("5-hour") Baby Sweater

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• History of these Patterns
• Bonnet Pattern
• Booties Pattern
• Attached Hood for this Sweater

Sweater Pattern

Sizing: To fit 8-10 lb. newborn [finished chest size 20 1/4" (51.4 cm), finished length 11 1/4" (28.5 cm)]

Materials :

• 4 oz. (120 g) worsted weight yarn (55-75 yd/oz, 180-240 m/100g)
• size 10-1/2 needles (6.5 mm)

For smaller sizes:

• To fit 4-7 lbs [finished chest size 15" (38.1 cm), finished length 8 3/4" (22.2 cm)]:
• 3.5 oz (100 g) sport yarn (75-100 yd/oz, 240-300 m/100g)
• size 6 needles (4 mm)
• To fit 1-3 lbs [finished chest size 12" (30.5 cm), finished length 6" (15.25 cm)]:
• 1.75 oz (50 g) baby or fingering yarn (125-155 yd/oz, 400-500 m/100g)
• size 3 needles (3.25 mm)

This pattern has been checked, rechecked and test-knit many times over several years ... if you have any questions or problems, please reread the "Important Note" below to be sure you are making the increases properly. If you still have questions, please contact Joan Hamer, who was instrumental in ensuring the accuracy of the pattern. Joan is also the publisher of a wonderful knitting newsletter called Pine Meadow Knitting News.

Important Note: There are two methods of increasing in this sweater. It is important that you use the one specified on a given row to obtain the correct stitch count.

• M1: This method increases by creating a new stitch in between two existing stitches.
• This increase produces a decorative hole. With tip of the right hand needle, pick up the running thread between the stitch just worked and the next one, bringing your needle from back (away from you) to front (towards you). Place this loop on the left hand needle and knit it from the front, as you wourl normally knit a stitch.
• If making a sweater for a boy and/or a less lacy appearance is wanted, use this method but knit into the back of the stitch, thus twisting it. This will not produce a hole.
• Inc1 in next stitch: This method increases by making two stitches from one existing stitch.
• Knit into the front and back of the next stitch, slipping both sts off the needle.

Cast on 34 sts for neck edge

Note You will always keep first and last 3 stitches in "knit" even on a "P" row.

• Row 1 K
• Row 2 K
• Row 3 K3 P2tog,*YO, P2tog. Repeat from * to last 3 sts, K3 (33st)
• Row 4 K
• Row 5 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
• Row 6 K3 *inc1 in next stitch, K1. Repeat from * ending with inc.1, K3 (47 st)
• Row 7 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
• Row 8 K3 *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4
• Row 9 K3 *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (47 st)
• Row 10 K3 * inc1 in next st, K2. Repeat from * end inc1, K4
• Row 11 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 (61 sts)
• Row 12 K3, *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (34 st)
• Row 13 K3 *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (61 st)
• Row 14 K4 *inc1 in next st, K3. Repeat from * to last 4 sts, inc in next st, K4 (75 st)
• Row 15 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
• Row 16 K3 *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (41 sts)
• Row 17 K3 *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (75 st)
• Row 18 K4 *inc1 in next st, K4. Repeat from * to last 6 sts, ending inc1 in next st, K5 (89 sts)
• Row 19 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
• Row 20 K3 *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (48 st)
• Row 21 K3 *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (89 st)
• Row 22 K5 *inc1 in next st, K5. Repeat from * to end. (103 sts)
• Row 23 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
• Row 24 K3 *K2tog. Repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (55 st)
• Row 25 K3 *K1, M1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4 (103 st)
• Row 26 K18 (front), inc1 in next st, place marker (pm), inc1 in next st, K 14 (sleeve), inc1 in next st, pm, inc1 in next st, K31 (back), inc1 in next st, pm, inc1 in next st, K 14 (sleeve), inc1 in next st, pm, inc1 in next st, K18 (front) (111 st)
• Row 27 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
• Row 28 *Knit to within 1 st of marker, inc1 in next st, slip marker, inc1 in next st; repeat from * 3 more times then knit to end of row (119 sts)
• Row 29 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
• Row 30 *Knit to within 1 st of marker, inc1 in next st, slip marker, inc1 in next st; repeat from * 3 more times then knit to end of row (127 sts)
• Row 31 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3
• Row 32 K22 sts and place on holder. Inc1 in next st, work 20 sts, inc1 in next st and leave on needle for sleeve. Place next 39 sts on holder for back. Place next 22 sts on another holder for other sleeve, and place last 22 sts on another holder for other front.

First Sleeve

• Rows 1-15 : Starting with a purl row, work in stockinette st (24 sts)
• Row 16 (right side): K1, k2tog, *p1, k1, p1, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
• Rows 17-21 Work K1, P1 rib. Note: You may wish to go down a needle size for the ribbing to hold it in a bit better.
• Bind off loosely in ribbing.

Second Sleeve

• With right side facing, pick up sleeve sts.
• Setup row: Inc1 in first st, k20, inc1 in last st (24 sts)
• Rows 1-15 : Starting with a purl row, work in stockinette st
• Row 16 (right side): K1, k2tog, *p1, k1, p1, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
• Rows 17-21 Work K1, P1 rib. Note: You may wish to go down a needle size for the ribbing to hold it in a bit better.
• Bind off loosely in ribbing.

Body: With right side facing, place first 22 sts on needle. Join yarn and knit across the back sts and other front. (83 sts).

• Keeping 3 sts at each end of row in garter stitch, work in stockinette stitch for 13 more rows.
• Row 14 K3, *k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4
• Row 15 K3, *K1, M1; repeat to last 4 sts, k4
• Rows 16-19 Keeping 3 sts at each end of row in garter stitch, work in stockinette stitch
• Row 20 K3, *K2tog, YO, repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4.
• For a picot edge:
• Rows 21-24 Work in stockinette stitch
• Bind off, turn up hem at eyelet row and sew in place.
• For a no-sew finished edge:
• Rows 21-24 Work in garter stitch (knit every row)
• Bind off loosely.

Finishing: Sew sleeve seams. Crochet a chain and thread through eyelet holes at neck edge. Darn in all ends.