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Pattern for Sock Heel with Diagonal Decrease
(no heel flap)

Patterns for Sock Heels taken verbatim from "The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework" (second edition) by Therese deDillmont. Copyright 1978 by Runing Press, 38 South Nineteenth Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103 (sorry, no ISBN appears on my copy). These patterns are quoted directly from the text; since I haven't yet tried them out, my comments are based on studying the patterns. The method seems to be similar to the "afterthought heel" given by Nancy Bush in "Folk Socks," except that these are worked in sequence with the sock -- after the cuff and before the foot -- rather than after the sock is finished. Note that both patterns assume the socks are being worked on five needles, with stitches evenly distributed over four working needles to start. Also note that no gauge is given; from the pictures I would guess these work for fairly fine yarn and size 2-3 (US) needles. Larger yarn/needle sizes may require adjustment.

Heel worked entirely in plain knitting

Those who do not like purling will find in the next two types methods of working heels entirely in plain knitting.

Method #1

• Knit the stiches on the needle which follows the seam [ed. note: note: this means needle #1], then take two extra needles ad on each cast on eight stitches more than there are on each needle of the ankle [ed. note: that means eight stitches more than there are on each of the four original working needles], join the stitches of the third needle [ed. note: that means the second new needle] to those of the fourth [ed. note: that means the last old needle], and knit the first round plain throughout. [ed. note: The instep stitches remain on two needles that are not used for the rest of the heel.]
• 2nd round: make 1 decrease with the 1st and 2nd stitches, and one decrease with the 9th and 10th stitches, of the first extra needle; 1 decrease with the 10th and 9th stitches from the end, and 1 decrease with the last 2 stitches, of the second extra needle. [ed. note: Each pair of decreases probably should be k2tog for the first and sl1, k1, psso -- or k2tog in back of stitches -- for the second, so that the diagonal slope is symmetrical.]
• 3rd, 5th, 7th, 10th, 11th, 13th, 14th, 16th, 17th, 19th and 20th rounds are knit throughout.
• 4th round: 1 decrease with the 1st and 2nd stitches, and 1 decrease with the 7th and 8th stitches, of the first needle; 1 decrease with the 8th and 7th stitches from the end, and 1 decrease with the last 2 stitches, of the second extra needle.
• 6th round: 1 decrease with the 1st and 2nd stitches, and 1 decrease with the 5th and 6th stitches, of the first extra needle; 1 decrease with the 6th and 5tgh stitches from the end, and 1 decrease with the last 2 stitches, of the second extra needle.
• 8th round: 1 decrease with the 1st and 2nd stitches, and 1 decrease with the 3rd and 4th stitches, of the first extra needle; 1 decrease with the 4th and 3rd stitches from the end, and 1 decrease with the last 2 stitches, of the second extra needle.
• 9th round: after the last 2 decreases, purl together the 4th and 3rd stitches from the end of the first and third needles, and the 3rd ad 4th stitches at the beginning of the second and fourth needles.
• 12th, 15th and 18th rounds: decrease as in the 9th round.
• 21st round: at the beginning of each needle knit 2 stitches; purl the next 2 together; purl together the 4th and 3rd stitches from the end of each needle; knit the last 2.
• Continue decreasing as in round 21 in every 3rd round, the 2 inteerveining rounds being knit throughout, until the purl decreases meet. Work 2 more plain rounds, then 1 round with 1 purl decrease above the former decreases; knit 4 more plain rounds, place the stitches for the sole on two needles, and cast off on the wrong side [ed. note: kitchener stitched?].
• Now pick up the loops of the auxiliary stitches [ed. note: I think this means pick up a stitch in each of the stitches cast on to the extra needles], and in the next rounds work as follows: make 1 decrease with the last stitch of the first needle and the 1st stitch of the second needle, 1 decrease with the last stitche of the third needle and the 1st stitch of the fourth needle. With the remaining extra stitches, purl decreases are made; 2 plain rounds are knitted after each round containing a decrease.

Method #2

Supposing there are 20 stitches on each needle: cast on 28 on each extra needle; make 1 decrease with the 4th and 3rd stitches from the end of the first and third needles, and 1 decrease with the 3rd and 4th stitches of the second and fourth needles, so that 4 plain stitches are left betwee 2 decreases. [ed. note: don't know why this couldn't be changed to fewer plain stitches -- maybe 2.] Continue decreasing in every 3rd round, until only 6 stitches remain on each needle. Then make 1 more decrease, with the last stitch of each needle and the 1st stitch of the next. Knit 1 more plain round, and end by casting off on the wrong side of the heel [ed. note: wouldn't these be <shudder> kitchener stitched?]. Then pick up the auxiliary stitches [ed. note: the stitches cast on to the extra needles] and knit the instep.